Chlorine can be purchased in the form of three-inch tablets, one-inch tablets, sticks, grains or liquid in bottles. Products that are listed as sodium hypochlorite are liquid chlorines and those labeled calcium hypochlorite are solid chlorine forms. Three-inch tablets are the most common form of chlorine used by most pool owners and are also the most inexpensive. They dissolve slowly though, so most pool owners prefer one-inch tablets since they work best for above ground pools, small in ground pools and spas. If you plan on buying cheap chlorine tablets, binders in the product don’t allow the tablets to maintain their shape and instead cause them to crumble in two or more days. Granular chlorine works as an alternative, but inorganic chlorine needs to be dissolved in a bucket of water before you put in the pool. It has to be done almost every day and the same goes for chlorine with organic compounds.
Cyanuric acid can be used as a more stable alternative as well, since it can’t be easily broken down by the sun. Test the levels again after placing any chlorine in your pool, to make sure the acid levels aren’t too high or you risk the chlorine losing its sanitizing ability. Additional helpful maintenance products are automatic chemical feeders and floating chlorine feeders that balance and measure the amount of chemicals in your pool. Carelessly adding chlorine has its repercussions and risks involved with increasing a pool’s high chlorine content are the erosion of filter and pump equipment.
Algae reappear in pools mainly because a chemical treatment failed to completely sanitize both the water and surfaces. In some cases, poor circulation in the filtering system prevents chlorine from getting distributed throughout the pool and cleansing the water. Water misdirection usually occurs because some pools are designed to redirect the water to the surface, helping pool owners collect debris much more easily and giving a moving effect to the water. Unfortunately, this allows generally the bottom areas of the pool to have little to no circulation and makes the use of algaecide ineffective. Removing organic material like leaves is also important because decomposition changes the pH level and allows algae growth to speed up. In addition, algae are costly and involve constantly filtering the pool daily with more chemicals to fight off the unsightly color.
Having algaecide applied everywhere is crucial as well because various algae species have spores that can survive outside of the pool. Once a spore comes into contact with the water, expect to fight another infestation once again. The most common form of algae though is the green variety and it can be eradicated through pool shock. Granular and highly concentrated, this chlorine quickly makes the water an unlivable environment. It’s also recommended that you do a pool shock once a week, to prevent algae spores from blossoming into a bigger problem. Scrubbing or brushing the floor, walls and steps also stops algae from firmly placing their roots in cracks on the surface. Running your pool at night will further reduce the risk of an algae infestation as well. Chlorine effectively keeps the water in your pool sanitized by removing most bacteria and algae altogether, but any buildup will make any effort to maintain the pool useless.
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“Power of hydrogen” or pH lets pool owners know the amount of acid in their pool’s water. Measured In a scale from 0 to 14, 7 is neutral territory. If the pH level is beyond 7 it is considered basic water, but if it’s below 7 it is acidic. A measure all pool owners should aim for is anywhere between 7.2 and 7.8, since it doesn’t cause discomfort to human eyes or mucous membranes. Low pH levels will cause the water to aggressively damage your pools mechanical system, lead to eye and nose irritation, deteriorate metal material and give swimmers dry scalp. Meanwhile, high pH levels will cause cloudiness, skin irritation and poorer chlorine disinfection.
Temperature, sunlight, and the size of a pool are all contributing factors in how clean a pool is. Rainwater can cause lower pH levels and foreign elements such as the oil from swimmers’ bodies can change the chemical balance in the water. Test strips can be used to measure the pH level in a pool and doing so twice a week is necessary for maintenance. To raise the pH levels in your pool and make it less acidic, use sodium carbine. While adding the chemical, have the pump running so the chemicals you add don’t go to waste. Add the sodium carbine slowly as well to avoid splashing and after an hour of adding the chlorine, check to see that the correct pH level has been reached. To lower the pool’s pH level certain acids work, like sulfuric or muriatic acid. Maintaining the pH level in your pool today will save you time and money in the future. It also maximizes the lifespan of your pool and its appearance for years to come.
For more information on pool maintenance and chemical balance contact us at email@example.com, call 800-211-7505 or purchase a test kit.